NYC to TO on the Maple Leaf slush express
December 27th, 2006This edition of thecages[1] comes to you from Toronto where we are visiting with Marce, Gen + Jules.
First a disclaimer, I feel that this blog is turning into a bit of a travelogue of ‘here’s me in front of the eifel tower’, ‘here’s me smoking a hookah on a beach in Bali’ – but the reality is that, right now, that is what I’m doing.
But fear not! I’m preparing some hard-hitting investigative navel gazing for the new year so do not despair news hounds, thecages hasn’t gone soft on you!
OK, here we go, on with the armchair travel.
We arrived last nite on the Amtrak Maple Leaf which took us from NYC Penn Station through upstate New York across the border at Niagra Falls and into CDN.

Amtrak Maple Leaf
After 4 sensory overloading days in Manhattan we spent the day reading, snoozing and making a go of playing Fluxx[2].
Manhattan was both familiar and amazing at the same time. I think it is impossible to come to a place that so saturates popular culture without hyping or judging it in advance; and it is remarkable that it survived whatever my expectations of it might have been at all.
Let’s not fuck around; Manhattan is on a massive scale and even in the holiday quiet time[3] is a constant throb of urban life.
I think it will take some time to digest our days in NYC and for anecdotes and memories to surface from the cold winter blast over the Hudson river and into my skull.
In the meantime, here is an NYC eye.
Manhattan from the Staten Island Ferry
Times Square
Wollman Rink in Central Park
What has struck me as an immediate kick in the gut is what turned into our worried mantra on the Maple Leaf: where’s the snow? Where is the snow? It’s Christmas, where is the snow?
The rail journey brought home the most tangible sign of rapid global warming I’ve yet experienced.
The US local media discreetly avoided the issue saying silly things like ‘Well, maybe Santa will be bringing some snow with him along with his usual load of presents’.
This is the first December since 1897[4]
From what we’re told there’s a more serious attitude to it in Canada and people are talking about it all over.
In the southern hemisphere we’re more prone to cyclical droughts and so haven’t felt such a visceral effect from global warming to date[5], but here the effects are immediate and undeniable. Is it too late? I don’t think so, but I do think that it’s going to get really ugly really quickly and unfortunately Africa’s diagnosed symptom kills painfully and slowly.
To be fair, this morning the temperature suddenly dropped and the first flurries appeared, by midday there was a fine layer of snow on the flowerbeds outside our windows, but by 4pm most of this has melted again.
And so the snow might finally have arrived with us on the Maple Leaf, but the fact is that the climate is shifting, we just don’t know how far it will go.
[1] sponsored by General Aphasia
[2] I’ve already started modifying the rules
[3] Apparently many New Yorkers head out of town in the run up to Christmas as they visit families or go skiing
[4] I speak under correction here, but we’re talking late 19th century
[5] Though the effects are no less dire



